川西纪行-IX-悦来古镇
开发过的古镇个个相似,未开发的古镇个个不同。悦来古镇是一个未开发过的古镇,虽然离成都如此近,跟没开发过的望鱼古镇相比,悦来古镇带着更多的一种文明味道。早晨从西来古镇离开,到浦江然后到大邑县。本来以为去悦来古镇很远,结果公交车就可以到,很方便,大邑长途客运站就有。悦来古镇在去西岭雪山的路上,公交车居然坐过站了,都快到西岭雪山脚下了才发现已经过了,赶紧下来到路对面准备搭公交车回悦来。等了一会儿就下雨了,还好穿着冲锋衣背着背包,大家以为我是出来玩徒步的,好几辆路过的越野车停下来问我是不是想搭顺风车,一身都是水,不好意思打扰就婉拒了他们的好意,不够感觉挺好,温暖呐。不停的有穿着骑行服的骑车飞驰而过,真担心他们歪着来看我会不会滑到。好歹等到了回程的公交车,到了悦来镇。这个古镇保留下来的地方不大,问了好几个人才拐到老街上。整个悦来镇蛮大,老街就靠着河边的几条街,第一次来不好找。很神奇,到了老街,雨就停了。
悦来古镇的老接口,悦来正街,好保留着上个世纪六七十年代的建筑
倚门而立的小姑娘,看见我拍照,一副害羞的样子
一户居民门前的椅子,看这样子,估计家里的老人经常坐在门前发呆打发时间
悦来正街通过另一条街的巷子
里弄,这里都有人居住,大部分地方都有人住着没有废弃
老街上有家卖字和对联之类的店,店主是一个有文化的人,询问老人古镇的事情,就在店里放下包休息,请几位老人抽我的中南海香烟,他们没抽过,很稀奇,给他们点上香烟,一下子就对我客气起来,给我介绍这个老镇的历史和典故。
在店里聊天的老人家,请他抽烟,老人家对我很热情,听说我是来这里看看古镇的,就不停的给我介绍古镇的老故事,对门冷家的历史
老人家很健谈,还配合着各种手势,虽然我有些话听不大懂,还好旁边的老板在给我解释
老人说的话有点听不懂,四川话,可能太快了
很精神的老人家,一边说一边各种手势,很有气魄。老人告诉我这里有个冷公馆,是当年川军一位姓冷的师长家的老宅子,一直保持到现在,冷家人在建国前后散居国内台湾和其它地方。
坐在店里的藤椅上,听两位老人讲述古镇的是是非非。外面又开始下雨了,挺有意思。
这位看着很儒雅的店主,应该是一个有故事的人,参与过县志的撰写,对传统文化有一些了解。
雨停的时候,老人很热情的要带着我给我介绍古镇的房子,这里是冷公馆,一座中西合璧的建筑,保存得相当完好,不知道在文革期间是怎么保持下来的。
这个叫“觉庐”的老公馆,一直没有被破坏过,据老人说是因为冷家在当年属于团结的对象
冷公馆的院墙,据说很厚,炮弹都打不穿
老人带我去参观他的老房子
老街背后的河,据说悦来古镇以前叫灌口,不知道是不是跟这个河有关系,是不是跟古时候四川的都江堰有没有关系,我记得都江堰以前叫灌县的。
河边有一座破败的老房子,不知道是什么建筑,看样子有点庙宇的味道
老街弄里,几个玩耍的小盆友
街口,戴着圆帽背着手踱步的老爷子,太有范儿了
Leica Summilux-R35/1.4,5D Mark II
—to be contiued—
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