川西纪行-VI-望鱼古镇之三
望鱼古镇是一条狭长的一字形长街，一条长满青苔的青石板路纵贯古镇，整个青石板路面难得的保持老样，那些被打磨被脚踏被风吹雨淋的痕迹，令人想起许多年以前，当茶马古道上还有来来往往的的客商和马帮的时候，这里应该是繁盛而忙碌的吧。街道两侧那些木结构青瓦房和吊脚楼，精致的瓦楞、墙角、窗棂和柱基石上的雕花显露出昔日的繁华。这些建筑曾经是衙门、银庄、当铺、药店、绣楼、旅店、饭馆、茶铺和戏台，还有庙宇，现在大多已成为民宅。老人们现在还能分清哪些房子是寺庙哪些房子是衙门和戏台。老街的两头古时设有栅道长长的石梯，可达到河边，并与新街相连，要进入老街，必须顺石梯登至山腰，易守难攻，是古镇出于防御山匪流患的需要。也就是这个原因，现在人们不愿意爬这么高去赶集就在周公河边重新修了一个新镇。老镇得以保存，这个原因应该是一个很大的原因。
早上很早就起床了，雨后，古镇充满了清新的味道
这次来望鱼，晴朗雨夜雨后，几种场景都遇到了，真不容易，拍了三组风格都不同，下雨的古镇，比较有感觉
镇子里的人都起床很早，跟老太太聊了一会儿天，老人家很健谈，现在才明白为什么望鱼古镇能保持这么原汁原味。老人家说前些年政府也拨款到望鱼准备开发古镇作旅游，也有人家来古镇来买房子准备开店铺什么的，后来不知道怎么的，镇里的领导们把这一大笔开发费用挪作它用给花掉了，没法子给镇上的人家搬迁费用和补偿也没法招商和翻新镇子里的建筑。因为已经申请过了，没法子重新申请开发旅游，没办法交待以前申请的费用去哪儿了，所以望鱼古镇的旅游开发就不了了之一直到现在。对于我们这些闲得蛋疼的人来说，古镇保持原汁原味，是一件好事，可以看到许多年前的古貌，但对于老人家们来说，没有开发，他们就无法获得经济上的利益也很难作生意赚钱，仍然住在这个安静荒凉的老街上。
坐在老人家的门口聊了很长时间，慢慢的也有游客来镇里了，也有人开始出来活动
在门口梳头的妇女
昨晚的雨下得挺大，雨后的青石板路，这些磨损的痕迹
游客们开始找地方打牌，一天的活动开始了
雨后的古镇和石阶
站在各自的门前，隔着街道聊天
望鱼古镇的石阶，人们从这里爬上几十阶的石板路，上到望鱼古镇来
在古镇溜达了一圈，拍了一组照片，就回客栈收拾东西准备离开。下到石梯下面回头拍了一张，去古镇的人们开始多了起来。
在这里搭车回到雅安之后，从雅安去蒲江然后去西来古镇。望鱼古镇是这次川西古镇六七个古镇里面，保持得最好的一个，基本没什么重修重建的建筑，感觉很好。
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这样的地方再过个2-30年就成废墟了吧？ 可能也没条件开发成渡假村或者建个vacation home 之类的。
说不好，也许过不了多少年，有些房子就经不住风吹雨淋了，木头房子没有维护的话，在这种一年下雨及白天的地方，可经受不了多久。这里开发成度假村也够呛了，开发经费已经申请过了，如果要重新申请的话，估计得有人丢官吧，那很麻烦的，没有人会愿意为了这么个破地方得罪同僚。
那些青石板路的台阶上温润饱满的光泽真让人喜欢
确实舒服，感觉很好的说，特别在雨天，那些石阶太有德味儿了。。。。。
好美。。。。
干净灿烂的笑容！
确实下雨的早晨，古镇更有味道啊。找这么片古老的地方很不容易，很多都被重修翻新，搞仿古的。所以，很多事情都要趁早。没了就没了。
是啊，下雨的古镇更有味道。就这种保持较好的老街来说，晴朗有阳光的下午，也是个不错的时候。可惜大部分古镇都经过了修缮，要是十年前来拍，估计会好很多。修缮之后，时间的味道就淡了好多。
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